The Good, Bad and the Ugly: The Right to the City?
First the removal of decorations from three-wheelers and buses,…and then the removal of street vendors in Kandy. These may or may not be part of the same project. But, certainly a continuation of the same thinking. A grand narrative and a mainstream obsession for “Clean” aesthetics! What is striking is the politics of this clean aesthetics_the entertainment of those who have something, at the expense of those who have almost nothing.
Judging by the one sided online conversation, the majority appears to be in agreement and even applaud such decisions. It is unfortunate and shocking to see how condescending and demeaning our communities and societies can be toward our own fellow citizens, especially on matters of such grave importance to those affected. What’s petty is that those who fancy visiting the buzzing street life with vendors in Bangkok find the street vendors in their own city as a nuisance. It seems that those who have ‘something’ feel entitled to their right to a ‘clean, Singapore-looking' city aesthetics, while another is deprived of making their own expression… in Kandy it goes so far even to take down someone’s right to make a living. How has one person’s desire for beauty become more important than another’s basic right to make a living?
While road safety and easing congestion are reasonable concerns, the attempt—as put forward by authorities—to ‘protect the beauty of the World Heritage City’ is absurd. Does this imply that street vendors make the city ugly? What is the standard of beauty? Most importantly, as raised earlier, how has the right to have a ‘beautiful’ city, and to create eye-candy, Instagram-ready images for some, become more important than another’s right to live?
Do cities need to be beautiful? Yes and no… it depends on the definition of beauty. But, the argument that beautification is necessary for development is flawed. How can the exclusion of a community that has conducted business for decades result in development? Or even make the city beautiful from the slightest sense? It seems that this approach is absurd not only from a social justice perspective but also from a basic economic standpoint.
Some news articles reported that street vendors caused significant inconvenience to pedestrians and residents. While place-based decisions, for example relocation of street vendors on the pavement outside the stone wall at the central market where the pavement is narrow, to close by street will be reasonable for all stakeholders. But aren’t the vendors residents of the city too? It was reported that the decision will not be reversed even at the request of the Governor or the President. So, what chance does a poor vendor have? As Edward Gleaser, an American Economist at Harvard University puts, “public policy should help poor people not poor places… the job of urban government isn’t to fund buildings or rail lines that can’t possibly cover their costs, but to care for the city’s citizens.”
clichéd nice looking street (if we can call it a street) with nice looking people (R). Two striking observations; 1 - Weird use of the word 'බලය-balaya’ (power) (Bottom right)- Should we be concerned?; 2 - Stark contrast between the two images in terms of fashion choices According to news reports, vendors do not prefer the alternative spaces provided. But why? It is crucial to understand that the economic logic of street vending is deeply intertwined with spatial logic. This logic is physical, communal and cultural at the same time.
Street vendors need visibility for their goods to sell. Streets provide optimal visibility. They sell a wide range of everyday goods—from garments and plastic items to electrical products—catering to busy daily commuters. The more customers see them, the better their sales. So what benefit is there in moving them away from pedestrians’ sight, especially into remote buildings?
How is visibility gained? Observing where vendors have organically positioned themselves reveals a clear pattern: they occupy ground-level spaces between anchoring destinations such as the bus stand and the railway station, or cultural institutions such as the Temple of the Tooth Relic in the case of Kandy. Another common location is at thresholds of public buildings, such as markets. Beyond visibility, the blurred threshold between customer and vendor eases the transaction. When they are relocated higher and remote from pedestrian movement, the sales drop. As Gleaser says, cities are all about proximity, density and closeness. The success of cities depends on these physical connections.
We must also consider the times we are living in. Sri Lanka has yet to recover from its economic struggles. The most vulnerable group is the informal sector, which accounts for nearly 60% of total employment, according to the Sri Lanka Labour Force Survey (2024). In Kandy, more than 120 families purely rely on the streets to make sure there is food on the plate for their families. How fair is it, then, to remove them from the streets? Kandy city has a massive car park connected to shopping mall attracting vehicles from all directions into heart of city creating massive traffic jams and congestion; yet no one proposes to remove those. Why is it the street vendors’ rights that are violated—often to satisfy restless virtual middle-class (rather, the floating voter base) fantasies for ‘nice-looking’ cities?
This leads to an important question why they came to cities in the first place ? (a choice they have a right to make) Similar to the case of unauthorized housing, people move into cities because of what cities offer - opportunities! Cities originated as places gathering, especially for the purpose of commerce. Yet most of these people do not have the capital to own land or buildings. They therefore choose spaces they can access: the streets!
Kandy is a small grid city, originally designed for administrative, political and religious objectives during the Kandyan Kingdom. Over the centuries, the city has evolved into its current polycentric nature, where citizens, commuters and visitors navigate with their own spatial narratives. As per World Bank (2020), more than 350,000 commuters travel daily for various needs. Kandy’s streets, originally designed to accommodate the Royal Tusker, two flankers, and two torchbearers during the annual Esala Perahera, were not intended for contemporary traffic demands; consequently, persistent congestion is inevitable with or without street vendors. Though ridiculous it may sound, with the current thinking, it would not be a surprise if they propose to not to have the Perahera! The crux of the matter is that, if one is genuine trying to reduce congestion, there are better alternatives than removing street vendors.
Another aspect that needs get straightened out is the perception, ‘to make Kandy tourist friendly’. Yes, tourism is important, but to an extent where our own citizens are erased? From the very city they lived and served? Eventually, residents will also become tourists of their own city. Galle Fort teaches another aspect of this tourist-driven city beautification trends. With upmarket cafes and restaurants with trendy architectural styles sweeping through the Fort in recent decades, land prices sky rocketed… residents sold their land…people all over the world were investing… streets were like buzzing beehive with tourists. There were more foreigners than locals…. Some restaurants were ‘foreigners only’. When COVID pandemic hit… Galle Fort was suddenly quiet. There was no life. COVID exposed sad reality…the slow death of the communal life at Fort behind the clean nicely designed aesthetics. Venice is yet another classic example where gentrification led to erasure of local life…hence the authenticity of the city. All what was to be seen were beautiful buildings and canals with no locals. It’s not only the canals and buildings made Venice what it was. It was its residents and their way of life in contained in it which made Venice. Even from tourists’ point of view, why do tourists come to Kandy in the first place? Will they come to see an empty city with monuments? Isn’t the experience of the local culture is part of the experience they look for? Walking down the streets.. taking tuk-tuk ride…eating street food! (While sitting on plastic bench).
Street vendors are also a vital part of a city’s intangible heritage. Around the world, many cities, some of which are historically important just like Kandy, treat street vendors not as problems to be cleansed away but as vital contributors to urban life, culture, and identity They protect and promote street-vendor cultures as part of their heritage, facilitating daily needs and attracting visitors—not merely as tourist spectacles. For instance, Bangkok’s ubiquitous street food stalls are woven into daily life. In Hanoi, vendors with baskets and bicycles have long animated the city’s historic streets, offering food, flowers, and goods that reflect generations of social rhythms and local economies. In Singapore, street food culture evolved into the nation’s celebrated hawker centres—formally recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage for their role in multicultural community life and everyday interaction. Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh in Morocco have hosted food and craft vendors for centuries, turning them into tourist and cultural landmarks.
These examples show that cities have historically managed—and even elevated—street vending as an asset, not a nuisance. They challenge the assumption that vendors inherently make a city “ugly” or must be pushed out in the name of beauty. Instead, vendors help define public space as lived, social, and culturally meaningful, proving that beauty and livelihood can coexist in the urban fabric. They make streets dynamic and vibrant. Removing street vendors drains life from the city. So, do we want cities that are beautiful and clean, yet lifeless?
If someone still hates to see street vendors, then work toward eliminating poverty—not face painting.
References
Ada Derana. (2026, January 2). Unauthorized pavement vendors in Kandy town removed. https://www.adaderana.lk/news.php?nid=116688
Basu, S. (n.d.). Understanding market interactions: Street vending in Delhi. International Growth Centre. https://www.theigc.org/blogs/understanding-market-interactions-street-vending-delhi
Footer, M. (2022, August 18). Bangkok’s street food vendors are disappearing—Those who survive may soon be inside Singapore-style hawker centres. South China Morning Post. https://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-magazine/travel/article/3189209/bangkoks-street-food-vendors-are-disappearing-those
Glaeser, E. L. (2011). Triumph of the city: How our greatest invention makes us richer, smarter, greener, healthier, and happier. Penguin Press.
Hiru News. (2025, December 27). Street vendors banned in Kandy from January 1. https://hirunews.lk/437895/street-vendors-banned-in-kandy-from-january-1st
Hiru News. (2026, January 15). Permanent ban on street vending in Kandy. https://hirunews.lk/en/440787/permanent-ban-on-street-vending-in-kandy
Newswire.lk. (2025, December 29). No more pavement trading in Kandy. https://www.newswire.lk/2025/12/29/no-more-pavement-trading-in-kandy/
Kumarage, A. S. (2011). Kandy city transport study [Technical report]. University of Moratuwa. https://doi.org/10.13140/RG.2.2.10033.90721
Samaranayake, S. K. (2025, December 26). Street vendors banned from Kandy city. The Island. http://island.lk/street-vendors-banned-from-kandy-city/
Sunday Times Sri Lanka. (2025, April 13). Kandy vendors given back to the pavement—Green light for the season. https://www.sundaytimes.lk/250413/news/kandy-vendors-given-back-to-the-pavement-greenlight-for-the-season-594615.html
The Morning. (2025). Street vendors and urban regulation in Kandy. https://www.themorning.lk/articles/X3U2B1s01YFrIEHIIXi6
The World Bank. (2020, February 26). Project Information Document: Kandy Multimodal Transport Terminal Development Project (P172342). World Bank. https://documents1.worldbank.org/curated/en/757861583133975558/pdf/Project-Information-Document-Kandy-Multimodal-Transport-Terminal-Development-Project-P172342.pdf
Vail, J. (2017, January 26). Intriguing food stalls of Jemaa el Fna, Marrakesh. Reflections Enroute. https://www.reflectionsenroute.com/intriguing-food-stalls-of-jemaa-el-fna-marrakesh/
YouTube. (2025). Street vending in Kandy [Video]. https://youtu.be/PXoGjOM_GkQ
Facebook. (2025). Street vendors in Kandy [Video]. https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1542728266979227
Heritage Wanderlust. (2024, August 4). Heritage meets modernity: An ode to the street vendors of Hanoi. https://heritagewanderlust.com/heritage-meets-modernity-an-ode-to-the-street-vendors-of-hanoi/
Comments
the visitors of the city. .They are the best spatial planners . They know to create a place for their scale.
Automatically a warm people friendly space . The built structure ,which may be EPHEMERAL or a adhoc
is evolved over a time to suit the context and to the community. That’s the most surprising fact. No
architect has the potential to create that intensity. Architect is a total stranger to the problem, does not
have the living experience of the situation.
Why do we need clean and beautiful cities,. Do we need such,. Yes we need. Clean means without piles
of garbage .and bad smells. Beauty lies not in order but in chaos. The intensity of the context demands
the intensity of chaos and clarity. We do not want haunting cities. Then again the cultural and trends
and living style of a place will demand the intensity of clarity and chaos.
Street vendors are the medium which creates the robust street edges. So the robust pedestrians . The
gradual transitions are a must for lively contexts. Any body who does not know abt the role of SPACE
will be a threat to the city.
All most all fancy buzzing streets. Some may pretend they don’t like this . but once they go to another
country they are very much into this, india Thailand or paris Italy ….
But in your own country some are reluctant to mingle with day to day happenings. Yes they may visit the
high end textile stores. They go for specific brands . needless to say their lives are boring and to get rid
of it for stimulation they have the clubs casinos etc. they are a imbalance unhappy brood.
Alternative spaces are decided by us who are not sensitive at all to the flow of happenings. The vendors
evolvement of space and place is over a time period.
Simple observation will tell everyone , how well they display their goods. What order and composition of
colours and shapes which moves the customer and the space .
Hope someone would be smart enough to teach these decision makers and politicians the ROBUST
STREET EFDGES , TRANSITION SPACE, AND ROBUST PEDESTRIALMNS VS HAUNTING CLEAN CITIES.
ANUSHA RAJAPAKSE .
2. 9. 2026.